Gold Education

Gold Quality
Gold's purity is measured in karats, 24 karat being considered pure gold. Different alloys are used in jewellery for greater strength, durability and color range.

The "K" or karat of the jewellery will tell you what percentage of gold it contains: 24kt is 100%, 18kt is 75%, 14kt is 58.33% and 10kt is 41.66% of gold. When comparing gold jewellery, the higher the number of karats, the greater the value.

Karat Marks
When buying gold jewellery, always look for the karat mark. All other factors considered equal, the higher the karat, the more expensive the piece. Nothing less than 10 karat can legally be marked or sold as gold jewellery in North America.

Gold Color
Yellow gold is alloyed with silver and copper. It is the most commonly used type of gold there is. Malleable, ductile, and generally non-corrosive, it has a high melting point and is not susceptible to compression.

White gold is alloyed with a large percentage of silver, or a selection of other white metals such as nickel. The percentage of gold naturally varies, according to the amount of other metal used. White gold is highly reflective and not subject to tarnish. The ancient term for white gold was Electrum. Its use predates that of Palladium and Platinum. Customers frequently question what causes a yellow tint in white gold and if the tint is normal, and whether they should switch to palladium white gold or some other metal for their jewellery.

01 – Most white gold alloys do have a yellow tint, some more than others based on the percentage of nickel they contain. Nickel is a metal which is mixed or alloyed with gold in order to change its color from yellow to white – the more nickel, the more white the end result is in a white gold. Today, nickel content in white gold alloys range from 7% to 11%. In previous times, white gold alloys may have contained higher percentage of nickel and would also have been whiter.

So why has it changed, and why everyone is making yellow white gold today? Surprisingly, the answer to these questions can be found on the shelves of supermarket in the dozens of cleaners and disinfectants containing corrosive chemicals like chlorine and bromine. White gold exposed to these chemicals can quickly fail due to stress corrosion, leading to prong failure and stone loss. The higher the nickel percentage is, the greater the risk of stress corrosion.

In recent years, most manufacturers have lowered nickel content in order to improve durability and stone security. In the past, this was unnecessary as there were not as many of these corrosive products available to the consumers. So how can a manufacturer/jeweler achieve a truly white appearance, one free from a yellow tint? In two words, “Rhodium Plating”.

Rose gold is alloyed with a higher percentage of copper, and perhaps silver. The proportions are about one part of copper to three parts of 24-karat gold.

Pricing
Gold pricing is based on a number of factors, including karat, gram weight, design and craftsmanship. The karat and gram weight tell you how much gold is in a piece, but don't rely on these alone to determine price. Remember, a price based solely on gram weight does not reflect the work that has gone into the piece.

Other important factors to consider are the jeweler’s construction and design. A well-made piece will give you years of wear and enjoyment and, if cared for properly, will last a lifetime. Unique design, intricate details, gemstones or a special clasp may add to the price.

Care
Gold is durable, sturdy, dependable, and makes an ideal setting for your precious diamond jewellery. However, to get a lifetime of enjoyment from your jewelry, be sure to keep it clean and safe.

Do not wear jewelry during rough work or when handling harsh chemicals. Store it in a fabric-lined box away from other pieces to preserve it from getting scratched. Finally, check the diamond settings periodically for any damage to the gold prongs or bezels. If you see a loose prong, or if the setting looks out of line, bring it to professional jewelry for repair as soon as possible.

Platinum Education

Platinum History
Platinum, like gold, has a long and distinguished history. Its popularity flourished over the last 200 years. Platinum was held in high esteem during early Egyptian times. Native people in South and Central America worked it as early as 100 B.C.

For centuries, the only large amounts of platinum outside of South America were found in Russian mines. Nowadays, platinum is far more precious than gold. Platinum's primary uses were probably limited by its hardness and its very high melting point. The early forging and casting techniques made it quite a difficult metal to work with.

Platinum Beauty
The demand of platinum is in its appearance. Its white luster is exclusive. It is also the strongest precious metal used in jewellery, and is almost twice as heavy as 14-karat gold. This weight is one of platinum's strongest selling points.

In recent years platinum’s popularity has grown. It is now an alternate choice for diamond engagement rings because its luster brings out the brilliance of diamonds along with the traditional white gold.

Platinum Origin
Despite its growing popularity, platinum remains one of the world's rare metals. It can be found in just a few of regions of the world. The mining and refining processes are both tough and time-consuming. For example, in order to extract a single ounce of platinum, about 10 tons of ore need to be mined. After that, the refining process takes a full five months.

Platinum in jewellery is actually an alloyed group of six heavy metals, including platinum, palladium, rhodium, ruthenium, iridium and osmium. These other metals are so similar to platinum in weight and chemistry that most were not even distinguished from each other until early in the nineteenth century.

Palladium Education

Palladium is a noble metal like Platinum that is used to create fine jewelry, and like its sister metal, Platinum it can be used as an alloy of 95% purity. Compare this to White Gold alloys which require a large percentage of alloying metals. 18K Gold is only 75% pure and 14K Gold is only 58.5% pure

White
Palladium is a white metal that, like Platinum, enhances the beauty of diamonds and gemstones set within it. Because its’ white color is natural and not the result of plating or alloying, Palladium’s white has great depth and luster.

Precious
Palladium is a Platinum Group Metal and is thirty times more rare than Gold. Mined together with Platinum in less than a half-dozen regions around the globe, Palladium is truly a precious metal and a fitting symbol of love, life, and other rare gifts. Palladium provides the luxury, purity and look of Platinum for approximately the price of White Gold.

Strong
Palladium, like Platinum, is naturally strong and durable when used in a higher purity alloy than other metals such as silver and Gold. Resulting in a more hypo allergenic product, Palladium does not suffer from prong failure, which is typical of many White Gold settings.

Design Versatility
Palladium strikes a harmonious balance: more durable and less susceptible to tarnish than White Gold, but as malleable as Platinum.
Palladium can support delicate designs which are difficult to execute in White Gold yet has the malleability to facilitate easy sizing, repair, etc.
With a weight similar to fine Silver, Palladium has enough heft to convey luxury but it is notably lighter than Platinum, allowing for bigger and bolder design looks that remain wearable and affordable.

History
When World War II began, the British government declared Platinum a strategic metal and its use in non-military applications, including jewelry, was disallowed. As a result, Palladium made its first appearance in jewelry in 1939. The demand for wedding bands increased during the early 1940’s and many were made of Palladium.
In response to the Clean Air Act of 1970 and the rise of environmental or ‘green’ legislation worldwide, both Palladium and Platinum were increasingly sought by the auto industry to produce the auto catalysts used to reduce car emissions. As Platinum became the more popular industrial metal, the demand and therefore the price of Palladium decreased and stabilized, bringing it increasingly into vogue for fine jewelry applications.

The Case for Palladium
The explosive growth in popularity of white metals over the last decade (particularly White Gold and Silver) creates a unique opportunity for Palladium jewelry. Palladium offers a more radiant white than White Gold, as well as many of the desired characteristics of Platinum without Platinum’s price point (Platinum has seen a precipitous decrease in sales in the US market as it approaches $1,000 per oz.) This trend is strongest among the next generation of fine jewelry consumers: 73% of 18-24 year old adults prefer white metal for jewelry, compared to 40% in the 25+ group.
Because both Palladium and Platinum have similar characteristics, they are interchangeable in many applications and are usually derived from the same mines. While individual mines may differ, the current annual production is approximately 6 million ounces for each metal, approximately thirty times less than Gold. Currently, Palladium’s inherent beauty, strength, and durability, make it an irresistible candidate for fine jewelry making.